Turkey 7 : Unexpected

After losing myself in paradise, surrounded by colorful autumn colors and solemn snow mountain ridge for two days, I decided to move on to the next destination - Kars located at border of Turkey and Armenia. The only van that travel in the morning from Barhal village to Yusufeli is at 7am. Dragged myself out from the warm bed, took breakfast prepared by the family and sayonara to the paradise in the cold morning.

The van traveled along the crystal clear streams in a narrow valley all the way to Yusufeli town. However, I cannot get any bus or van that travel to Kars from Yusufeli. Since I was traveling by myself, and my journey are unplanned, I took out my guide book, looked at the map for Northeastern Anatolia, simply choose a destination on the map - chosen Ardahan as long as it leads me to Kars next. After checking with the bus office, mostly with sign language and one two single words, I hopped on a bus destined to Artvin. Journey to Artvin from Yusufeli is not really a pleasant one, as construction of dam was in progress that time. When the minibus reached the junction leading into Artvin town, the bus driver asked me to go down - pointed at another bus - that is the bus to Ardahan. There I go on my journey to Ardahan via Cam Pass at 2540m.

This journey is unexpectedly amazing, passing through yaylalar (pastures) settlement, and an old Georgian town of Savsat.

Continuing east the bus crossed over the Cam Pass at 2540m, through winding roads with amazing settlements and scenery along the way. After the high mountain pass, leaving all the lush wooded valleys, and I came to a different landscape of Turkey - the Plateau which leads into Ardahan. It was end of autumn at that time, and a lot of temporary shields for the herdsman were left empty. However, I could still see herds of cows, goats and horses on the plateau. This part of Turkey is having its own uniqueness, not only in landscape but lifestyle.

It was a gloomy day and that make me decided to continue my journey even though how I hope to jump down from the bus at one of the settlements along the way. However, I indeed enjoyed this unexpected view on my unplanned journey.

P/S : I am a very lazy photographer, and not the type who always hang my camera on my neck everywhere I go during my journey. A lot of time I see, I feel and I store all these experience in my very own memory card. Best way is - be there and feel it.

Turkey 6 : Lost In Paradise

After my stay in the busy town Trabzon in Black Sea Region, I moved on to mountain village in Yusufeli. Only one bus company operates direct journey from Trabzon to Yusufeli, with stops along the way. The bus travels through the scenic coastal way of black sea, then uphill to Artvin and further up to Yusufeli. I continued my journey from Yusufeli to Barhal village. The road journey is extremely scenic with beautiful valleys, mountainscape and emerald river. In old days, the castle was built on the mountain to saveguard the whole area from enemy.

Barhal village is one the base for trekkers in Kackar or Altiparmak mountain range. A very small village with few shops supplying all kinds of groceries including camping equipments such as gas canister, etc. And definitely there is also restaurant or tea shop, as the Cay culture is everywhere you go in Turkey.I was told that the pension I will be staying is located somewhere like this pension. Luckily there is a pulley system which transport stuff up to the pension. This pulley system is used by most village houses located at hill slopes. I stayed in pension runned by Karahan's family. I was the only guest at that time as the trekking season has over. I was glad to have company of a young lovely pre-school teacher, Turkan who is just about to start her teaching life in Barhal village. The dinner with the family was great, with lenthil soup, stuffed capsicum etc all prepared by the mama and younger brother of Karahan family. Breakfast served with village honey and homemake cream.

So how I spent my day in this village since I dont have any plan to go trekking in Kackar or Altiparmak range? To me, it is indeed one of the most "colorful" day of my journey. I simply lost in paradise. My walking journey from Barhal village up toward Naznara located at base of Altiparmak ridge is such a leisure for me. Once I was lying on pasture admiring beautiful wild flowers, then you can find me relaxing by the stream, or sometimes I was lying on rocks taking nap with beautiful snow ridge in front of me.

Most of the houses are made of wood, and the design is almost similar, with storage space and drying rack for crops. It is harvest season for fruits. The villagers are so hospitable waving at me inviting me into their courtyard and share the fresh walnut harvested from their orchard. Some villagers even feed me with apples. My short stay in this area is colorful and memorable, not only due to the wonderful autumn colors but the friendliness and hospitality of the villagers.

More photos on the link to my flickr album http://www.flickr.com/photos/ahbeelim/sets/72157622773766411/

Turkey 5 : Devotional Road

Sumela Monastery was founded as early as 4th centry, re-builit and restored for many times in dfferent centuries, by different empire of Turkey. Devotional road is always not an easy journey of life. Many monasteries of different location and different religions share similarities, where they are mostly built in places away from cities, up on the hill slope, or hidden in forests and caves in order to provide a quiet place for prayers and learning.

Sumela Monastery was located in Macka region, and it is basically built into a steep slope of Karadaglar/Black Mountain. From the valley, visitors need to walk uphill for about 30 minutes to reach the entrance of the monastery. The journey is short, but many parts are quite a steep walk. There are plenty of maple tress along the way, and the colorful maple leaves beautifies my journey up to the monastery.

A long and narrow stairway leads me to the entrance of the monastery. Among the major elements in this monastery are the Rock Church, chapels, kitchen, student rooms, library, guest rooms and sacred spring. However, only limited compartments are opened to public/visitors.

The inner walls and outers wall of the Rock Church and chapels are decorated by frescoes. These frescoes were made as early as 13th century during the reign of Alexios III of Comnenian Empire of Trabzon. These fresoces can be in the inner wall of Rock Church.

There are different kind of frescoes used to decorate the early churches. Some are painted directly on the rock wall, while some are painted on to a thin layer of plasters on rocky wall, and this is the type observed in this monastery.

The frescoes found in this monastery are badly damaged, but the outline of the frescoes can still be observed clearly. The main subjects of these frescoes are biblical scenes, as well as stories of Jesus Christ and the Virgin Mary.

The outer wall of the church is filled with frescoes of various biblical scenes such as resurrection of Jesus Christ, etc. However, I notice that many frescoes of people are destroyed, with either both eyes or face gone. After I asked the guard stationed in this monastery about the reason, then I know that when Islam came to Turkey, many frescoes related to Christianity are destroyed by Muslims and in their belief, a being is represented by both eyes or face. Therefore, most of the frescoes ended up with both eyes or face gone.

Devotional road is always about faith. Look at how the devotees of the world, of various religions practice and devote themselves to the God or to what they believe. It is always a wonderful experience to visit religious places and learn about others' religions or belief.

Note : Aya Sofya Museum is also worth a visit in Trabzon. This is not the Aya Sofya in Istanbul.

Turkey 4 : Sema - 800 years of Love

Sema is the inspiration of Mevlana more than 800 years ago, and it is also a part of Turkish culture, history and beliefs.

Watching and experiencing the Sema ceremony live is a touching moment for myself. It represents a mystical journey of the spiritual ascent of man through mind, and love to the Perfect. Turning towards the truth, growing through love, deserting his egos, finding the truth and finally arriving to the Perfect (Kemal). And after that return from the spiritual journey with maturity and greater perfection, to love and to serve the creation.

Sema ceremony consists of seven parts, with different meanings. It is accompanied by Sufi music.

The dervishes will remove the black cloak, and it marks the start of his spiritual journey to maturity and perfection through stages of Sema. The crossing arms of the dervishes testify to God's unity. During whirling, the arms are open, with right hand directed to the sky receiving blessings from God. The dervishes revolve around the heart, from right to left, embraces all humankind with affection and love.

Seven parts of Sema :
(1) Eulogy to the Prophet
(2) Drum sound symbolising the Divine order of the Creator
(3) Instrumental music with a read which represents first breath that gives life to everything - The Divine Breath
(4) Greetings of dervishes to each other and repeated circular walk.
(5) Whirling, with four salutes of different meanings
(6) Quran reading
(7) Prayer

The religious ceremony takes about one hour, and I could feel the human desire to be in unity with God, to reach the perfection, and to spread God's love to the whole creation. It is a wonderful experience for me to witness this ceremony, especially the non commercial ceremony organized by Konya City Council to the visitors. It is no longer just a dance, or just a whirling ceremony to me, and I appreciate the kind of spiritual desire of humankind to our Creator, through prayer and revolving towards perfection and spiritual maturity.

This 800 years of love will continue as we are all created in the image of our Creator, with his Divine Breath, and our longings to be in unity with our Creator and to be like Him comes naturally as part of us.

Turkey 3 : Fairytale Ottoman Town of Amasya

After staying in Istanbul for two days, I decide to move into Central Anatolia to Amasya, a town with Ottoman architecture. I bought myself an overnight bus ticket from Istanbul, and it took me around 8 hours to reach Amasya. The petrol RON95 price in Turkey is around TL3.80 per liter, but the long distance bus fare is considered at reasonable rate, and the service are good. Drinks e.g. hot tea/coffee, fruit juice or soft drink will be served during the bus trip. Besides that, when you purchased bus ticket, they will note down whether you are "Bay" or "Bayan" and solo female traveler will not be seated beside a male stranger.

The bus reached Amasya Otogar (Bus terminal) around 6am the next day before it heads for its last stop in Tokat. I was a bit blur waking up early in the morning, but luckily there is always minivan transfer service by the bus company from the Otogar to the town center. Most of the bus terminals are located quite a distance away from the town center. However, I encounter one minor problem during the transfer, as the driver and passengers do not speak any English, and the driver is sending the passengers back to their home which is not in the town center where I want to go to look for hotel. I am the only passenger left in the minivan by then, and I was trying my very best to tell them when I wish to go, and even show them the map in my Lonely Planet (But it doesn't help). And one last try after that is I picked my mobile, dial the number of a hotel located in town center, and pass the phone to the driver...and it works. After that incident, I learn a new Turkish word - Sehir Merkezi which means centrum or town center. Thanks for the patience of the driver sending me right in front of the hotel.

Amasya, located in Central Anatolia Turkey is a city with fairytale Ottoman mansions (Konaks) along the Yecilirmak River which is located in between two great ridges of rock. It is very similar to the villages in China which are built along the riverbank. Ottoman mansion basically has wooden frame with rock or nowadays bricks used for the wall. Many of these old mansions have been restored, and Hazeranlar Konagi which was restored in year 1979 is now converted into a museum open to visitors.

Besides its attractive architecture, there are rock-cut tombs of the Pontic Kings up on the mountain at northern bank of the river. These tombs was built as early as 4th century BC, but now all tombs are empty. The rock tomb are cut in a way that there is a passageway round the tomb, but a gate is built and no visitor is allowed. The views over the town also make the climb up to the tomb worthwhile. Both southern and northern bank can be seen clearly up here. Most Ottoman houses are found in northern bank, while new town scape can be seen in southern bank of the river.

Amasya is also famed for its apples. I bought some and tried, juicy, sweet and good taste. It is a relaxing moment walking alone the river banks, enjoying the cool breeze with beautiful Ottoman building hanging at the riverbank. Amasya is also famous for one of the Turkey's best-loved folk tales, the tragic love story of Ferhat and Sirin, which is similar to the story of Romeo and Juliet. And this folk tales make this place a romantic place to be. A statue of the two lovers is built at the southern bank of the river.

I stayed in a small hotel in the town center, and the hotel owner Mr Kenan owns also a restaurant just next to his hotel. He is very friendly, and his friendliness is not the cross-border type even though he knows that I am alone and not married. I feel comfortable resting in the lobby, doing my last minute plan where to next and writing some notes. Mr Kenan will serve me Cay and make sure I am comfortable. He is so interested to know how his name is written in Chinese, and I wrote to him as 柯南 (Isn't this one of the famous detective in comics?) When he knows I am looking for the direction of the mosque with spiral minaret, he even personally brought me there.

There are many mosques or camii all over Amasya. The mosque with spiral minaret named Burmali Minare Camii, is more unique among others. It was built by the Seljuks between 1237 and 1247, with elegant spiral carving on the minaret. Besides the unique minaret, there is obvious Seljuks influence in the architecture.

A small peaceful town, which marked a good start of my journey into Eastern Turkey.

Please visit http://www.flickr.com/photos/ahbeelim for more photos of Amasya.

Turkey 2 : More than a Shrine

"When we are dead, seek not our tomb in the earth, but find it in the hearts of men" This is written as epitaph on Mevlana or Rumi tombstone. Jalāl ad-Dīn Muḥammad Rūmī, or commonly know as Mevlana, or Rumi is the famous Persian poet, jurist, theologian and mystic in 13th century. He was born in today's Afghanistan in year 1207, later moved and lived in present day Konya Turkey. This building/shrine, today's Mevlana Museum is the green tomb (Yeşil Türbe) for Rumi upon his death in year 1273.

Mevlana's teachings has inspired many people around the world. You can find many articles about it on website. UNESCO has also declared year 2007 as International Rumi Year to mark 800th anniversary of Rumi's death. Besides that, the dance of whirling dervishes or Sama inspired by Rumi is also UNESCO listed World Intangible Heritage.

When I visit Konya in my journey, no doubt Mevlana Museum with the turquoise dome is one of the most distinctive sights in Turkey, but the simple seven advice of Mevlana as below impressed me more. There are many teachings and inspiration by Rumi, but these basic seven advice is so practical for our daily lives, no matter what religion we have. It is definitely not just a shrine/museum/tomb but just as what is written in his epitaph "When we are dead, seek not our tomb in the earth, but find it in the hearts of men".

Seven advice of Mevlana :
(1) In generosity and helping others be like River
(2) In compassion and grace be like Sun
(3) In concealing other's faults be like Night
(4) In anger and fury be like Dead
(5) In modesty and humility be like Earth
(6) In tolerance be like a Sea
(7) Either exist as you are or be as you look

I appreciate this simple advice, in particular the last. God created us as we are today, and we should live as we are or be as we are. My simple understanding is I should live my life to the fullest, and always look forward for better life. Comparing myself with others which resulting in blames and harms will not do any good to my life.

Turkey 1 : Turkish Kahvaltı (Breakfast)

What do Turkish typically eat for breakfast or Kahvalti? Bread (Ekmek), hard boiled egg, butter, block of cheese, cream, jam or honey, black olives, slices of fresh cucumber, tomatoes, and glasses of sweetened black cay (tea). I enjoyed this breakfast throughout my journey in Turkey. However, there are some changes as I traveled from Istanbul towards the East through Central Anatolia to North Eastern then to South Eastern Anatolia.

When I stayed at pension in Barhal village in Kackar mountains area, similar breakfast is served, but no more packed honey, but fresh village honey and cream that make it different. In Van, the village honey are sold in a way as shown in this photo, and therefore you can imagine how fresh the honey is without any additives or preservatives.

As I travel further east, I passed through high mountain pass, and landed at a plateau. This area is dominated by shepherd families, when cow and goat are the major livestock. And eventually cheese, butter, yogurt and any other dairy products become the major production either in family basis or larger scale basis. Kars, a Little Russian town located near Armenia border is famous for its cheese trading. You can see shops selling only cheese and nothing else. All cheese blocks come with trademark or logo, and in different size, shape and type. A lot of cheese sold in the shops are even fermented, and turn into black color (I think better quality if not mistaken, as it fermented for longer period). Taken Kars cheese during breakfast, and yummy! [Took some photos of that, but sad to say that the files are all corrupted due to computer virus.]

And as I go further south towards Van located in South Eastern Anatolia, there is one speciality which must give it a try. Still it is cheese, but it is mixed with tangy herbs as shown in this photo. Sometimes they called this cheese as grass cheese as well. In Van, there are two famous outlets for breakfast located side by side around the main street. I was there one morning to try out this special cheese, and both the cheese and village honey taste good. Photo shows Otlu Peynir (Cheese with Tangy herbs) a speciality in Van.

French bread is the common type of bread throughout Turkey, either for breakfast, lunch or dinner. However as I travel into areas with more Kurdish and Arabic, type of bread preferred by the local also changed from French bread into Kurdish bread or Naan. Kurdish bread is similar to Naan bread we have in Malaysia and often serve hot from oven. It is eaten during breakfast, lunch and dinner as the main source of carbohydrate.

It is very interesting to observe changes as such, besides changes in landscape, culture, ethnic group, what or how they wear, language, etc...even though I am still traveling within the same country.

P/S : So far, China is another country which I find so interesting, as each province has its own uniqueness in various aspects.