贵州行之第二篇 ： “进入”神话里的大瀑布

为何选择了“进入”来形容我的黄果树大瀑布之游呢？待会儿揭晓。。。

到中国游玩绝对是需要体力，尤其脚力就因为中国之大。但对“星级"景区如黄山，虎跳峡等，加上你的口袋饱满，大致上这并不是一个大问题。一般上你都可以看到轿子和师傅们在欢迎你的到来。但在黄果树大瀑布景区却没这情景。当我到售票处一看，我便知何以如此了。原来景区内建有一座长长的电动扶梯，而你在买票时可选择双程使用那设备，或只是看完大瀑布走回上山的那一程。我这种打着算盘的背包客，当然选择上下都靠我的双脚。一开始的路程是非常轻松的，因为路程都是往下走。一路上“POTONG”（闪过）好多的游客，隐隐约约中那大瀑布出现在我眼前了。还记得我上一篇文章里的最后一张照片吧。读过我那文章的请注意看看以下这张照片的上端中间的部位，有着一颗绿色的树，那就是同一颗树了。

当时属于缺水期，但黄果树大瀑布却又另一番美丽。那白白如丝缎般的流水形成了自然的线条。没看到成龙大哥（电影神话）从那瀑布上端飞跃而下，却看到那瀑布的背后尽然有人在那里走着。没错吧！这就是为何我说“进入”神话里的大瀑布。我不能像成龙般一跃而下，但我可以“走入”瀑布里。

走着走着忽然来了一道阳光，并穿过那水花形成了一道七彩的桥梁。这桥梁可是到那瀑布的捷径也。可惜我这个凡人哪有资格走过为神仙而设的桥梁。看来我只好绕大圈了。

渐渐地我感觉到越来越多的水花溅在我身上。我已开始进入水帘洞。（位于那流水背后的天然通道被称为水帘洞）。我有一种身在武侠时代的感觉，会否有缘让我遇上蜘蛛精？ （蜘蛛精把那漂亮的水帘洞改名为盘丝洞）。 走入那神秘的通道，阴阴的，湿湿的，一路听到那滴答滴答声，那冷冷的水滴在我身上也不尽让我打冷噤。我把头往外一看，我刚才看到那大瀑布的流水警示触手可及也。很棒吧，这时的我可是身在大瀑布其中哦。

穿过了水帘洞后，游客们可以看到另一个角度的黄果树大瀑布。之后便是那长长往上走的路. 我一路走着走着竟在那里待了超过三个小时。虽然没让我掉入神话里，也没让我遇上蜘蛛精，但走在黄果树大瀑布背后的感觉还挺棒的。值得一游。

贵州行之第一篇 ： 追随唐僧与孙悟空

备注 ：这是我一年半前独自往贵州黔西南，黔东南一路走到广西的游记。是时候把它以文字的方式与大家分享了吧。

当时是2008三月尾吧。一个“Headhunter”的来电，让我有了这一个月的空档，于是在一个星期内订了机票，申请了中国签证，再到书局买了一本中国西南部的“寂寞星球",再往我的背包里塞了几件换洗的衣服，贵州苗族和侗族朋友们，我来咯！（大家还记得当时的贵州和广西北部刚经历了一场天寒地冻的雪灾）。

飞机把我带到了深圳机场。一个人带着背包，在机场里晃了大约七个小时等待从深圳飞往贵阳的内陆班机。当我在麦当劳努力地读着“寂寞星球”，计划着我的下一站行程的当儿，我结识了一位来自芙蓉的导游。他正带着一班印裔律师们前往北京。非常开心友族朋友们也想到我们那宏伟的万里长城走一走，到那故宫去看一看当年皇帝的住处，再到天安门与邓小平打个招呼，更不忘到那还在连夜赶工的奥运场地转一转。 “吹水”的时间溜得最快，之后大家便风道扬镖往各自的目的地前进。

到达贵阳已入夜，乘搭机场巴士到市中心后便前往贵州那唯一的青年旅舍住宿。梳洗后便是倒头一睡准备第二天一大早出发到下一站。我本身不大爱在大城市里打转，贵阳就成了我的一个过站。

到过吉兰丹州JELAWANG瀑布的朋友都知道那瀑布有多高吧。如果把这个瀑布打横就成了陡坡塘大瀑布，因为陡坡塘的宽度就是大约105米。在中国版西游记电视剧里，陡坡塘便是唐僧取经必经之路。我本约好唐僧到这里会面，並追随他与他一块儿去取经，怎知却在这遇上了一位“可爱女人”，莫非她是孙悟空七十二变而成的？ （纯属虚构也）

在前往景区的公交车上结识了来自天津的王博 姐，我俩决定结伴同行，一来可以分担那免不了的出租车费，也 让行程没那么孤单。王姐可是天津电视台的歌手，随团到贵州表演的当儿，也不错过到处走走看看。很自然的我变成了王姐的摄影师。在录影机前的她表现得多自然，更因为那美丽的景色而唱起歌来。她也硬把我塞入镜头中，让我说一说我的感觉，但和吃表演这行饭的比起来，我差太远了。（之后王姐也把那剪接过的录影通过电邮传给我，可惜下载屡次失败。。）王姐的女儿也是歌手，而且长得和蔡依林太相似了吧。。

看着在水里嬉戏的鸳鸯，那盛开的桃花，听着那流水声。。太棒的感觉。。

在陡坡塘待了好一会儿，我们建议去看一看中国最大瀑布的源头。在那悠悠流水旁有着一个小村庄。那流水似乎非常平静，但你可以想象在那棵树的后尾，便是那中国最大，成龙在“神话”中寻找的大瀑布？。。。待续。。。。

Turkey 4 : Sema - 800 years of Love

Sema is the inspiration of Mevlana more than 800 years ago, and it is also a part of Turkish culture, history and beliefs.

Watching and experiencing the Sema ceremony live is a touching moment for myself. It represents a mystical journey of the spiritual ascent of man through mind, and love to the Perfect. Turning towards the truth, growing through love, deserting his egos, finding the truth and finally arriving to the Perfect (Kemal). And after that return from the spiritual journey with maturity and greater perfection, to love and to serve the creation.

Sema ceremony consists of seven parts, with different meanings. It is accompanied by Sufi music.

The dervishes will remove the black cloak, and it marks the start of his spiritual journey to maturity and perfection through stages of Sema. The crossing arms of the dervishes testify to God's unity. During whirling, the arms are open, with right hand directed to the sky receiving blessings from God. The dervishes revolve around the heart, from right to left, embraces all humankind with affection and love.

Seven parts of Sema :
(1) Eulogy to the Prophet
(2) Drum sound symbolising the Divine order of the Creator
(3) Instrumental music with a read which represents first breath that gives life to everything - The Divine Breath
(4) Greetings of dervishes to each other and repeated circular walk.
(5) Whirling, with four salutes of different meanings
(6) Quran reading
(7) Prayer

The religious ceremony takes about one hour, and I could feel the human desire to be in unity with God, to reach the perfection, and to spread God's love to the whole creation. It is a wonderful experience for me to witness this ceremony, especially the non commercial ceremony organized by Konya City Council to the visitors. It is no longer just a dance, or just a whirling ceremony to me, and I appreciate the kind of spiritual desire of humankind to our Creator, through prayer and revolving towards perfection and spiritual maturity.

This 800 years of love will continue as we are all created in the image of our Creator, with his Divine Breath, and our longings to be in unity with our Creator and to be like Him comes naturally as part of us.

Turkey 3 : Fairytale Ottoman Town of Amasya

After staying in Istanbul for two days, I decide to move into Central Anatolia to Amasya, a town with Ottoman architecture. I bought myself an overnight bus ticket from Istanbul, and it took me around 8 hours to reach Amasya. The petrol RON95 price in Turkey is around TL3.80 per liter, but the long distance bus fare is considered at reasonable rate, and the service are good. Drinks e.g. hot tea/coffee, fruit juice or soft drink will be served during the bus trip. Besides that, when you purchased bus ticket, they will note down whether you are "Bay" or "Bayan" and solo female traveler will not be seated beside a male stranger.

The bus reached Amasya Otogar (Bus terminal) around 6am the next day before it heads for its last stop in Tokat. I was a bit blur waking up early in the morning, but luckily there is always minivan transfer service by the bus company from the Otogar to the town center. Most of the bus terminals are located quite a distance away from the town center. However, I encounter one minor problem during the transfer, as the driver and passengers do not speak any English, and the driver is sending the passengers back to their home which is not in the town center where I want to go to look for hotel. I am the only passenger left in the minivan by then, and I was trying my very best to tell them when I wish to go, and even show them the map in my Lonely Planet (But it doesn't help). And one last try after that is I picked my mobile, dial the number of a hotel located in town center, and pass the phone to the driver...and it works. After that incident, I learn a new Turkish word - Sehir Merkezi which means centrum or town center. Thanks for the patience of the driver sending me right in front of the hotel.

Amasya, located in Central Anatolia Turkey is a city with fairytale Ottoman mansions (Konaks) along the Yecilirmak River which is located in between two great ridges of rock. It is very similar to the villages in China which are built along the riverbank. Ottoman mansion basically has wooden frame with rock or nowadays bricks used for the wall. Many of these old mansions have been restored, and Hazeranlar Konagi which was restored in year 1979 is now converted into a museum open to visitors.

Besides its attractive architecture, there are rock-cut tombs of the Pontic Kings up on the mountain at northern bank of the river. These tombs was built as early as 4th century BC, but now all tombs are empty. The rock tomb are cut in a way that there is a passageway round the tomb, but a gate is built and no visitor is allowed. The views over the town also make the climb up to the tomb worthwhile. Both southern and northern bank can be seen clearly up here. Most Ottoman houses are found in northern bank, while new town scape can be seen in southern bank of the river.

Amasya is also famed for its apples. I bought some and tried, juicy, sweet and good taste. It is a relaxing moment walking alone the river banks, enjoying the cool breeze with beautiful Ottoman building hanging at the riverbank. Amasya is also famous for one of the Turkey's best-loved folk tales, the tragic love story of Ferhat and Sirin, which is similar to the story of Romeo and Juliet. And this folk tales make this place a romantic place to be. A statue of the two lovers is built at the southern bank of the river.

I stayed in a small hotel in the town center, and the hotel owner Mr Kenan owns also a restaurant just next to his hotel. He is very friendly, and his friendliness is not the cross-border type even though he knows that I am alone and not married. I feel comfortable resting in the lobby, doing my last minute plan where to next and writing some notes. Mr Kenan will serve me Cay and make sure I am comfortable. He is so interested to know how his name is written in Chinese, and I wrote to him as 柯南 (Isn't this one of the famous detective in comics?) When he knows I am looking for the direction of the mosque with spiral minaret, he even personally brought me there.

There are many mosques or camii all over Amasya. The mosque with spiral minaret named Burmali Minare Camii, is more unique among others. It was built by the Seljuks between 1237 and 1247, with elegant spiral carving on the minaret. Besides the unique minaret, there is obvious Seljuks influence in the architecture.

A small peaceful town, which marked a good start of my journey into Eastern Turkey.

Please visit http://www.flickr.com/photos/ahbeelim for more photos of Amasya.

Turkey 2 : More than a Shrine

"When we are dead, seek not our tomb in the earth, but find it in the hearts of men" This is written as epitaph on Mevlana or Rumi tombstone. Jalāl ad-Dīn Muḥammad Rūmī, or commonly know as Mevlana, or Rumi is the famous Persian poet, jurist, theologian and mystic in 13th century. He was born in today's Afghanistan in year 1207, later moved and lived in present day Konya Turkey. This building/shrine, today's Mevlana Museum is the green tomb (Yeşil Türbe) for Rumi upon his death in year 1273.

Mevlana's teachings has inspired many people around the world. You can find many articles about it on website. UNESCO has also declared year 2007 as International Rumi Year to mark 800th anniversary of Rumi's death. Besides that, the dance of whirling dervishes or Sama inspired by Rumi is also UNESCO listed World Intangible Heritage.

When I visit Konya in my journey, no doubt Mevlana Museum with the turquoise dome is one of the most distinctive sights in Turkey, but the simple seven advice of Mevlana as below impressed me more. There are many teachings and inspiration by Rumi, but these basic seven advice is so practical for our daily lives, no matter what religion we have. It is definitely not just a shrine/museum/tomb but just as what is written in his epitaph "When we are dead, seek not our tomb in the earth, but find it in the hearts of men".

Seven advice of Mevlana :
(1) In generosity and helping others be like River
(2) In compassion and grace be like Sun
(3) In concealing other's faults be like Night
(4) In anger and fury be like Dead
(5) In modesty and humility be like Earth
(6) In tolerance be like a Sea
(7) Either exist as you are or be as you look

I appreciate this simple advice, in particular the last. God created us as we are today, and we should live as we are or be as we are. My simple understanding is I should live my life to the fullest, and always look forward for better life. Comparing myself with others which resulting in blames and harms will not do any good to my life.

Turkey 1 : Turkish Kahvaltı (Breakfast)

What do Turkish typically eat for breakfast or Kahvalti? Bread (Ekmek), hard boiled egg, butter, block of cheese, cream, jam or honey, black olives, slices of fresh cucumber, tomatoes, and glasses of sweetened black cay (tea). I enjoyed this breakfast throughout my journey in Turkey. However, there are some changes as I traveled from Istanbul towards the East through Central Anatolia to North Eastern then to South Eastern Anatolia.

When I stayed at pension in Barhal village in Kackar mountains area, similar breakfast is served, but no more packed honey, but fresh village honey and cream that make it different. In Van, the village honey are sold in a way as shown in this photo, and therefore you can imagine how fresh the honey is without any additives or preservatives.

As I travel further east, I passed through high mountain pass, and landed at a plateau. This area is dominated by shepherd families, when cow and goat are the major livestock. And eventually cheese, butter, yogurt and any other dairy products become the major production either in family basis or larger scale basis. Kars, a Little Russian town located near Armenia border is famous for its cheese trading. You can see shops selling only cheese and nothing else. All cheese blocks come with trademark or logo, and in different size, shape and type. A lot of cheese sold in the shops are even fermented, and turn into black color (I think better quality if not mistaken, as it fermented for longer period). Taken Kars cheese during breakfast, and yummy! [Took some photos of that, but sad to say that the files are all corrupted due to computer virus.]

And as I go further south towards Van located in South Eastern Anatolia, there is one speciality which must give it a try. Still it is cheese, but it is mixed with tangy herbs as shown in this photo. Sometimes they called this cheese as grass cheese as well. In Van, there are two famous outlets for breakfast located side by side around the main street. I was there one morning to try out this special cheese, and both the cheese and village honey taste good. Photo shows Otlu Peynir (Cheese with Tangy herbs) a speciality in Van.

French bread is the common type of bread throughout Turkey, either for breakfast, lunch or dinner. However as I travel into areas with more Kurdish and Arabic, type of bread preferred by the local also changed from French bread into Kurdish bread or Naan. Kurdish bread is similar to Naan bread we have in Malaysia and often serve hot from oven. It is eaten during breakfast, lunch and dinner as the main source of carbohydrate.

It is very interesting to observe changes as such, besides changes in landscape, culture, ethnic group, what or how they wear, language, etc...even though I am still traveling within the same country.

P/S : So far, China is another country which I find so interesting, as each province has its own uniqueness in various aspects.

如斯如画 Chocolate-drop Hillocks

As I read the photocopy materials from some guidebooks during my stay in Bamei village, I decided to spare some short time visiting a district town called Qiubei (丘北) located in Yunnan near to the border of Guangxi. This town would be the pit stop for my plan to visit Puzhehei (普者黑) which is famous for its gorgeous natural karst landscape. Puzhehei is known as backup spot with similar scenery after Guilin and its sibling Yangshuo.

During wet season, a good way to visit the place is via boat ride through the 20km long waterway which will take around 4 to 5 hours, and of course to pay certain reasonable price for the ride. You will pass through lakes full of lotus, see more than 300 karst formation, as well as caves along the ride. I was there during dry season in December, where a lot of waterways are dried up and no lotus for viewing. Therefore, I need other way to appreciate the beauty of PuZheHei and I chose to climb the QingLon (青龙) Hill nearby for aerial view of the whole area. The walk from the entrance to the hill, and back to the village took me around 3 to 4 hours, but it brought me to fantastic view of PuZheHei.

This is the first view I saw when I reached the first view point of QingLon Hill. No regret for the walk, as this is indeed another good way to appreciate the beauty of PuZheHei.

It looks like a painting to me and it was a good moment for me sitting up there having snacks, taking photos and enjoying the beautiful scenery.


There are more than 300 karst formation in this area.

Among the minority ethnics in these villages are mainly Zhuang (壮族), Miao (苗族), and Yi (彝族). I did not explore much on the villages due to time constraint as this place is an additional spot in my trip itinerary.

As I walked further up, I managed to see even a wider aerial view of Puzhehei. The scenery is amazing and worthwhile for the climb.
I was there during winter season, and therefore most of the fields are harvested. However, the villagers started planting for flaxseed for cooking oil.

This photo is taken on the other side of the hill, looking at different view of the area. If you noticed clearly, the lakes are full with dried lotus.

This is very different from my home county, as we see tree with green leaves thoughout the year, even though in dry season.


This bridge lead us to the village from QingLon hill. A hang out place for the locals with rest area.

Alternative way of moving around in the village besides using bicycle and motors.

This river is just located just next to the village. The water is crystal clear providing good reflection for photography, even though the villagers depend on it for daily activities such as washing clothes etc.

Last but no least, this is me enjoying myself at first view point, taking photos, eating, resting....

Total Solar Eclipse 2009

I was in China for the past week to witness the Total Solar Eclipse on 22 July 2009. I went to Anji area which is located in the centre of the eclipse belt. Therefore, I managed to witness the maximum eclipse for around 6 minutes. The first contact started at around 8:22am local time, maximum eclipse at around 9:35am and the eclipse ended at around 10:58am.

Thank God for wonderful weather despite cloudy weather in the morning which worried me until around 8am. And the rain came only after lunch hour. I also encountered other problems as my plan was to join my friends together with all others from various countries at the water dam area (江南天池). However, as I did not join any tour group, and I was not allowed to enter the area without any permit/ticket (This area is open to public in normal day with entrance fee paid). After talking to the guesthouse owner, the place I stayed is located at the other side of the mountain, and I will be able to see the same view at his balcony as those in the water dam area. My appreciation to the guesthouse owner, Mr Fang for his hospitality during my stay and all of us enjoyed the wonderful moment of total solar eclipse.

I took photos for the whole process, but it takes time for me to cut and paste the photos into one single photo to show the process. Therefore, let me share with you all the highlights of this eclipse at the moment. Hope you all like it.

Pit Stop at Qiubei

As I read the photocopied materials from some guidebooks, and since I had the flexibility in my itinerary, I decided to go to a small town called Qiubei (丘北) located in Yunnan near to the border of Guangxi. This town would be the pit stop for my plan to visit Puzhehei (普者黑) which is famous for its gorgeous natural karst landscape. Puzhehei is known as backup spot with similar scenery after Guilin and its sibling Yangshuo.

Religious buildings help us to have better understanding on the religion and culture of the locals.

Qiubei is a very small district town (县城), easily walk end to end in just an hour. Besides Han Chinese, you can also find Yi (彝族), Hui (回族) and other minorities in this town. Market is always the best place to encounter the minorities, as they will always make sure they look at their "bestest" best when they are out in town for marketing.

This is the street where the local market is located

I am just a passer by hanging around in the street and market of this town. However, I managed to see minority costumes which is new to me (After visiting many minorities villages in Guizhou and Guangxi in my another trip). I am always excited to explore the minorities in China, simple reason - they are culture rich. Culture is one of the major things I search for besides beautiful scenery in my trips.

I tried many times to ask them which minority ethic they belongs to, but looks like I have difficulty understand their Chinese language (普通话). If not mistaken, they are Yi (彝族).

The ladies are so busy bargaining for good deal. They are selling semi-finished product such as belts, etc which are part of their traditional costumes, or finished products such as full set of costumes)
*The blue color of their costume reminds me on my secondary school uniform. Haha"

She was too shy for me to take her photo. After prompting for few times, only then she looked at my camera.

As I walked towards the other end of the street, a muslim couple was there selling barbeque mutton, beans, beancurd, sprinkle with chilli powder...yummy yummy, how to resist? It reminds me of my trip in Xinjiang years back, where I had eaten so much muttons. Mutton is definitely not my choice of food back in my home country, as it tastes so much different from mutton in Xinjiang...

Her hat is so unique...but regret to say I yet to find out which minority ethic she belongs to..

It is always good to ask for permission before taking portrait shots, and I did, but she still look fierce to me..

Last but not least, this is taken at the share bathroom/washroom of the hotel I stayed in Qiubei. For someone who don't read Chinese character, which one should you follow? The "male/female" sign, or the "women/men" wording? Before I checked out, I informed the receptionist about the mistake, and hope they will amend the signage.