Total Solar Eclipse 2009

I was in China for the past week to witness the Total Solar Eclipse on 22 July 2009. I went to Anji area which is located in the centre of the eclipse belt. Therefore, I managed to witness the maximum eclipse for around 6 minutes. The first contact started at around 8:22am local time, maximum eclipse at around 9:35am and the eclipse ended at around 10:58am.

Thank God for wonderful weather despite cloudy weather in the morning which worried me until around 8am. And the rain came only after lunch hour. I also encountered other problems as my plan was to join my friends together with all others from various countries at the water dam area (江南天池). However, as I did not join any tour group, and I was not allowed to enter the area without any permit/ticket (This area is open to public in normal day with entrance fee paid). After talking to the guesthouse owner, the place I stayed is located at the other side of the mountain, and I will be able to see the same view at his balcony as those in the water dam area. My appreciation to the guesthouse owner, Mr Fang for his hospitality during my stay and all of us enjoyed the wonderful moment of total solar eclipse.

I took photos for the whole process, but it takes time for me to cut and paste the photos into one single photo to show the process. Therefore, let me share with you all the highlights of this eclipse at the moment. Hope you all like it.

Pit Stop at Qiubei

As I read the photocopied materials from some guidebooks, and since I had the flexibility in my itinerary, I decided to go to a small town called Qiubei (丘北) located in Yunnan near to the border of Guangxi. This town would be the pit stop for my plan to visit Puzhehei (普者黑) which is famous for its gorgeous natural karst landscape. Puzhehei is known as backup spot with similar scenery after Guilin and its sibling Yangshuo.

Religious buildings help us to have better understanding on the religion and culture of the locals.

Qiubei is a very small district town (县城), easily walk end to end in just an hour. Besides Han Chinese, you can also find Yi (彝族), Hui (回族) and other minorities in this town. Market is always the best place to encounter the minorities, as they will always make sure they look at their "bestest" best when they are out in town for marketing.

This is the street where the local market is located

I am just a passer by hanging around in the street and market of this town. However, I managed to see minority costumes which is new to me (After visiting many minorities villages in Guizhou and Guangxi in my another trip). I am always excited to explore the minorities in China, simple reason - they are culture rich. Culture is one of the major things I search for besides beautiful scenery in my trips.

I tried many times to ask them which minority ethic they belongs to, but looks like I have difficulty understand their Chinese language (普通话). If not mistaken, they are Yi (彝族).

The ladies are so busy bargaining for good deal. They are selling semi-finished product such as belts, etc which are part of their traditional costumes, or finished products such as full set of costumes)
*The blue color of their costume reminds me on my secondary school uniform. Haha"

She was too shy for me to take her photo. After prompting for few times, only then she looked at my camera.

As I walked towards the other end of the street, a muslim couple was there selling barbeque mutton, beans, beancurd, sprinkle with chilli powder...yummy yummy, how to resist? It reminds me of my trip in Xinjiang years back, where I had eaten so much muttons. Mutton is definitely not my choice of food back in my home country, as it tastes so much different from mutton in Xinjiang...

Her hat is so unique...but regret to say I yet to find out which minority ethic she belongs to..

It is always good to ask for permission before taking portrait shots, and I did, but she still look fierce to me..

Last but not least, this is taken at the share bathroom/washroom of the hotel I stayed in Qiubei. For someone who don't read Chinese character, which one should you follow? The "male/female" sign, or the "women/men" wording? Before I checked out, I informed the receptionist about the mistake, and hope they will amend the signage.

哪里是你心中的世外桃源?

何谓世外桃源？依据百度百科，世外桃源原指与现实社会隔绝,生活安乐的理想境界；后也指环境幽静生活安逸的地方，借指一种空想的脱离现实无争的美好地方。

东晋文选家陶渊明笔下的世外桃源便是一个与世隔绝，没有遭到祸乱的地方。这地方隐藏在山的背后，村民们生活在一片祥和与世无争的气氛中。

在我出发到广西的一个星期前， 偶然在网站上读到一篇报道关于一个被形容为世外桃源的地方---- 坝美村，于是此地便纳入了我旅程中的其中一个目的地。

我非常好奇为何坝美村会被称为世外桃源？当我看到三百六十度环绕坝美村的几百米高的岩石山壁；供村民们进出的两个石灰岩水溶洞；一条清清小河穿过安静的村庄；在青山绿水之间，温和善良的人们，……我就懂了世外桃源的真正含义。

坝美距离广南越二十多公里路。从广南县城搭上三路公交车，大约一个小时后便到达法利村。沿途经过大大小小的壮族村庄。村民们从县城里买日常用品都需经过长途跋涉才能回到家，有些村民下车后可还得翻山越岭才能到家呢！

一下公交车，眼前便是一座连着一座的岩石峭壁，而我梦想中的世外桃源----坝美便静静的躺在这岩石的后边，唯一进入的方法就是穿过那水溶洞。从法利村，马车吱吱扭扭地把我送到了水溶洞的入口处。

上图: 桃花洞的出口我看到坝美了!

水溶洞有个美丽的名字----桃花洞，让人不由得想起陶渊明在《桃花源记》中的句子：“……忽逢桃花林，夹岸数百步，中无杂树，芳草鲜美，落英缤纷……”在桃花洞外，许多小木船整齐地躺着等候回家的村民。船夫撑着竹竿，小船进入了一片漆黑的桃花洞。在这长达960米的水溶洞中，幸有三个自然天窗，为我们在黑暗中带来了一线光明。熟悉的船夫在伸手不见五指的溶洞里自在地划行，同船和气的村民不时与我聊天，让我放松心情。声音回荡在那时而宽，时而窄的洞里，让我的心充满了期待。大约20分钟后，隐隐约约看到了一片片绿油油的田园，水车以及摇曳的竹叶……豁然开朗，我到了坝美！真有柳暗花明又一村的感觉！

上图 : 到达水溶洞的出口真有豁然开朗的感觉

据说大约八成的坝美村民都属姓黎，坝美并无旅社,只有几户农家乐供游客们留宿,而我晚上便借宿在黎家大哥的屋舍。恰巧遇上黎家媳妇准备送回娘家的过年礼----糯米糕。暖暖的糯米糍粑里裹着红豆沙，也裹进黎家媳妇对亲人的思念。我饱含感激地尝了一大块，这糯米糕可花了姑娘们不少功夫把糯米碾成糍粑，那清甜的滋味一直甜到你的心里去。

右图 : 黎峰的母亲

“喔喔喔……”，我们从被窝里醒过来，没有城市中人们的喧闹声以及交通工具的嘈杂声，替代的是曾经在书本读到过的自然的声音：公鸡的啼声，可爱的小鸭子“嘎嘎嘎”的叫声，肥嘟嘟的小猪猡“哼哼叽叽”，早起耕作的老牛脖子上“叮叮铛铛”的铃声。360度环绕着坝美的岩石山害羞地躲进了淡淡的晨雾里，勤劳的村民早早便起床去农田里干活。适逢油菜花盛开的季节，绿油油的麦苗陪衬着大片黄澄澄的油菜花，恍若身在画中。“土地平旷，屋舍俨然，有良田美池桑竹之属。阡陌交通，鸡犬相闻。” 陶渊明笔下的世外桃源亦不过如此吧？虽然没有桃花的映衬，但那美丽的田园风光也已让我如坠梦中。

不知不觉地放慢了我一惯紧凑的脚步，跟着坝美的步伐悠闲地漫步在乡间小路上。背着小宝宝的村妇在田里不时的弯腰摘菜，清洌洌的河边可见三三两两的村妇在洗衣洗菜，“咚咚咚……”的棒棰声拌着孩子们在河边的嬉戏笑声，随着小河欢乐地流淌，即便是河里的鸭子也似乎能体会这美景，悠然自得地在水里游来游去。阿科河从村子南边的汤那洞流进， 穿过坝美从北头的桃花洞流出。“吱吱呷呷”旋转着的水车是坝子中灌溉的功臣，让坝美拥有肥沃的土壤及生活用水，得以自给自足。被村民称为夫妻树的大榕树如同一对携手共度风雨的 老夫妻，相依相偎，互相扶持，枝繁叶茂地注视着这美丽平和的小村落，只有岁月的在它的枝干上留下了些痕迹。

一路上间或也会遇到担桶的村民往田里走，那桶里装的可是“有机”肥料哦！在现代科技如此发达的今天，城市里的公民是多么惧怕有问题奶粉，吃抗生素长大的鸡。

村民们日出而作，日落而息的生活是如此的从容不迫，匆忙与压迫似乎都未出现在坝美的字典里。或许只有当哪家的女人要生孩子，才能引起村民们的慌张吧！我多么地期望我生活的地方也象这世外桃源，再不用担心什么金融风暴，次级贷,裁员等的生活压力。

要离开坝美，必须乘搭小船掠过丛林，经由阿科河，穿过猴爬岩下边的汤那洞。猴爬岩陡然竖立几百米，我想除了现今一流的攀岩高手外，恐怕就只有猴子才有这本事攀越这岩石山吧！长达860米的汤那洞则完全没天窗，但如今的坝美已经有了电力供应源，因此村民们便安装了照明灯，让我得以欣赏了洞里美丽的钟乳石。溶洞里一片平静，只有船夫撑竿划水的声音拌着我驿动的心重新回到这纷繁复扰的现代社会。

虽然我只是坝美的过客，但那简简单单的小寨子却让我有种身处世外桃源，与世隔绝的经历。我走过不少中国的村寨,更踏足许多壮观的景点如万里长城,元阳梯田等,但这一个并不列入国家级景区的坝美却深深的扣住了我的思维. 或许长期生活在城市里的我终想透过旅行来聆听我心中的呼唤,来让我真正地去感觉,去寻找世外桃源的所在之处. 而坝美人们内心深处那平静、安祥的心境以及那从容不逼的生活节奏，让我领悟到世外桃源也许并非一个地方或美景，而是在我的心中。那么你心中的世外桃源又在何处呢？让我们这些浸染尘世忙碌的人一起寻找那遗失的世外桃源吧！

好喜欢这棵大榕树

Now in China, Now in Vietnam

Now I am in land of China...Now I am in land of Vietnam...

I am standing on the land of China looking at Vietnam which is located just at the opposite bank of the river.

After spending one night at Longzhou (龙州), I took early bus to Shuolong(硕龙), followed by minivan to Detian(德天) entrance. As there is no other visitor, it is like chartering the whole minivan all the way to Detian. The young driver is kind enough to stop along the way for me to take photos. It is exciting moment to chit chat with him all the way. He also waited for me outside the entrance gate, but unfortunately, a minor accident happened on the way back to Shuolong that I had to walked from half way all the way to Shuolong. Luckily it is downhill all the way and he is honest that he didn't charge me at all.

Niagara, Victoria and Iguazu falls are among the world most famous international border crossing waterfalls. Well, it is a bit too far, or rather too costly for me to travel there at the moment. Therefore, for me to gain similar experience, I had chosen the waterfalls crossing China and Vietnam borders which is the 4th largest waterfall along a national border after Iguazu, Victoria and Niagara. This waterfall consists of two section - Detian and Ban Yue Waterfall (德天瀑布&板约瀑布). Detian Waterfall is located in Guangxi province while Ban Yue in Cao Bang province. The main stream split the land into land of Vietnam and China.

The waterfall is surrounded by karst which make it beautiful with unique landscape. Detian waterfall is much bigger comparing to Ban Yue waterfall located in land of Vietnam.

Detian waterfall has 3 tiers. I was there during winter, and therefore it is considered dry season (枯水期). However, as it does not heavy flow, I could see the wonderful lines of the water flow.

While on the another bank of the stream, Ban Yue waterfall is much smaller in comparison with Detian Waterfall. That is why this Chinese description 得天(DeTian) 独厚 becomes even more meaningful, as land of China is blessed.

On the top of the waterfall, there are plenty of Chinese as well as Vietnamese traders. This piece of land belongs to the Vietnamese and the Vietnamese trades are selling all kinds of stuff especially cigarette and souvenirs. Besides that, there is one stone tablet on top of the waterfall marking the border point of Guangxi Province. The stone tablet is written in both Chinese 中国广西界碑and French language.

The highest tier of Detian waterfall made up of small streams among rocks with beautiful karst background. It cannot really be seen from the walkway, and it surprises me with beautiful view.

This waterfall marks the diplomatic relationship between China and Vietnam, and how this land is blessed with plenty of water source for agricultural activities. A memorable experience of putting one foot on the land of China while another foot on the land of Vietnam.

To be continued.....

To China via Friendship Pass (YouYiGuan) 穿过友谊关

It is year end and my travel desire hits me again. At very last minute plan, I decide to visit some places near border of China and Vietnam. No detailed plan is done, just booked my air ticket to Hanoi, get my China visa done, stuff few items into my backpack and here I am in LCCT early morning of Christmas Eve in year 2008.

The 3 hour flight took me to Hanoi, and as landed in Hanoi airport, I managed to catch the public bus to the bus station where I was supposed to head on to Lang Son in Northern Vietnam. However, I fell asleep on the public bus, and ended up in the city centre of Hanoi. Therefore, I had no choice but to back track paying another round of bus fare, on board the same bus after it made the U-turn.

It took me around 3 to 4 hours from Hanoi to Lang Son using van. It was great that I met Mr Wu, a decent Chinese from Ping Xiang working as translator in Ho Chin Minh. He is helpful that he shared with me about the border crossing to China, and he even paid for my immigration fee when we reached the border.

It was an exciting moment when I reached the border crossing point, the Friendship Pass (You Yi Guan). There are many Chinese who are either visitors or business travelers at the immigration. I didnt really see any backpacking traveler at the check point that day, and therefore, when the Chinese is trying to cut my queue at the immigration check point, the immigration officer instructed them to follow the queue. This at least gave me a better image for my first step into the land of Chine. Not many questions were thrown to me at the immigration and there I went into China.

Friendship Pass or YouYiGuan 友谊关 is one of the nine famous border checkpoints in China. It was named YouYiGuan only in year 1965 by Ministry of Internal Affairs. A tunnel and highway is being built to promote the relationship between China and Vietnam.

It is always good to see the diplomatic arrangement between two countries. There are so many unsafe country borders in the world which always end up with saddening incident such as bombing etc. PEACE!

After some photography moment at the border, I took a cab to nearest town Pingxiang and bus to Longzhou for overnight.

To be continued...