Showing posts with label Yunnan 云南. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Yunnan 云南. Show all posts

Monday, August 3, 2009

如斯如画 Chocolate-drop Hillocks

As I read the photocopy materials from some guidebooks during my stay in Bamei village, I decided to spare some short time visiting a district town called Qiubei (丘北) located in Yunnan near to the border of Guangxi. This town would be the pit stop for my plan to visit Puzhehei (普者黑) which is famous for its gorgeous natural karst landscape. Puzhehei is known as backup spot with similar scenery after Guilin and its sibling Yangshuo.

During wet season, a good way to visit the place is via boat ride through the 20km long waterway which will take around 4 to 5 hours, and of course to pay certain reasonable price for the ride. You will pass through lakes full of lotus, see more than 300 karst formation, as well as caves along the ride. I was there during dry season in December, where a lot of waterways are dried up and no lotus for viewing. Therefore, I need other way to appreciate the beauty of PuZheHei and I chose to climb the QingLon (青龙) Hill nearby for aerial view of the whole area. The walk from the entrance to the hill, and back to the village took me around 3 to 4 hours, but it brought me to fantastic view of PuZheHei.

This is the first view I saw when I reached the first view point of QingLon Hill. No regret for the walk, as this is indeed another good way to appreciate the beauty of PuZheHei.


It looks like a painting to me and it was a good moment for me sitting up there having snacks, taking photos and enjoying the beautiful scenery.


There are more than 300 karst formation in this area.

Among the minority ethnics in these villages are mainly Zhuang (壮族), Miao (苗族), and Yi (彝族). I did not explore much on the villages due to time constraint as this place is an additional spot in my trip itinerary.

As I walked further up, I managed to see even a wider aerial view of Puzhehei. The scenery is amazing and worthwhile for the climb.
I was there during winter season, and therefore most of the fields are harvested. However, the villagers started planting for flaxseed for cooking oil.

This photo is taken on the other side of the hill, looking at different view of the area. If you noticed clearly, the lakes are full with dried lotus.

This is very different from my home county, as we see tree with green leaves thoughout the year, even though in dry season.


This bridge lead us to the village from QingLon hill. A hang out place for the locals with rest area.

Alternative way of moving around in the village besides using bicycle and motors.

This river is just located just next to the village. The water is crystal clear providing good reflection for photography, even though the villagers depend on it for daily activities such as washing clothes etc.

Last but no least, this is me enjoying myself at first view point, taking photos, eating, resting....

Wednesday, July 15, 2009

哪里是你心中的世外桃源?

何谓世外桃源?依据百度百科,世外桃源原指与现实社会隔绝,生活安乐的理想境界;后也指环境幽静生活安逸的地方,借指一种空想的脱离现实无争的美好地方。

东晋文选家陶渊明笔下的世外桃源便是一个与世隔绝,没有遭到祸乱的地方。这地方隐藏在山的背后,村民们生活在一片祥和与世无争的气氛中。

在我出发到广西的一个星期前, 偶然在网站上读到一篇报道关于一个被形容为世外桃源的地方---- 坝美村,于是此地便纳入了我旅程中的其中一个目的地。

我非常好奇为何坝美村会被称为世外桃源?当我看到三百六十度环绕坝美村的几百米高的岩石山壁;供村民们进出的两个石灰岩水溶洞;一条清清小河穿过安静的村庄;在青山绿水之间,温和善良的人们,……我就懂了世外桃源的真正含义。

坝美距离广南越二十多公里路。从广南县城搭上三路公交车,大约一个小时后便到达法利村。沿途经过大大小小的壮族村庄。村民们从县城里买日常用品都需经过长途跋涉才能回到家,有些村民下车后可还得翻山越岭才能到家呢!

一下公交车,眼前便是一座连着一座的岩石峭壁,而我梦想中的世外桃源----坝美便静静的躺在这岩石的后边,唯一进入的方法就是穿过那水溶洞。从法利村,马车吱吱扭扭地把我送到了水溶洞的入口处。

上图: 桃花洞的出口我看到坝美了!

水溶洞有个美丽的名字----桃花洞,让人不由得想起陶渊明在《桃花源记》中的句子:“……忽逢桃花林,夹岸数百步,中无杂树,芳草鲜美,落英缤纷……”在桃花洞外,许多小木船整齐地躺着等候回家的村民。船夫撑着竹竿,小船进入了一片漆黑的桃花洞。在这长达960米的水溶洞中,幸有三个自然天窗,为我们在黑暗中带来了一线光明。熟悉的船夫在伸手不见五指的溶洞里自在地划行,同船和气的村民不时与我聊天,让我放松心情。声音回荡在那时而宽,时而窄的洞里,让我的心充满了期待。大约20分钟后,隐隐约约看到了一片片绿油油的田园,水车以及摇曳的竹叶……豁然开朗,我到了坝美!真有柳暗花明又一村的感觉!

图 : 到达水溶洞的出口真有豁然开朗的感觉


据说大约八成的坝美村民都属姓黎,坝美并无旅社,只有几户农家乐供游客们留宿,而我晚上便借宿在黎家大哥的屋舍。恰巧遇上黎家媳妇准备送回娘家的过年礼----糯米糕。暖暖的糯米糍粑里裹着红豆沙,也裹进黎家媳妇对亲人的思念。我饱含感激地尝了一大块,这糯米糕可花了姑娘们不少功夫把糯米碾成糍粑,那清甜的滋味一直甜到你的心里去。

右图 : 黎峰的母亲

“喔喔喔……”,我们从被窝里醒过来,没有城市中人们的喧闹声以及交通工具的嘈杂声,替代的是曾经在书本读到过的自然的声音:公鸡的啼声,可爱的小鸭子“嘎嘎嘎”的叫声,肥嘟嘟的小猪猡“哼哼叽叽”,早起耕作的老牛脖子上“叮叮铛铛”的铃声。360度环绕着坝美的岩石山害羞地躲进了淡淡的晨雾里,勤劳的村民早早便起床去农田里干活。适逢油菜花盛开的季节,绿油油的麦苗陪衬着大片黄澄澄的油菜花,恍若身在画中。“土地平旷,屋舍俨然,有良田美池桑竹之属。阡陌交通,鸡犬相闻。” 陶渊明笔下的世外桃源亦不过如此吧?虽然没有桃花的映衬,但那美丽的田园风光也已让我如坠梦中。


不知不觉地放慢了我一惯紧凑的脚步,跟着坝美的步伐悠闲地漫步在乡间小路上。背着小宝宝的村妇在田里不时的弯腰摘菜,清洌洌的河边可见三三两两的村妇在洗衣洗菜,“咚咚咚……”的棒棰声拌着孩子们在河边的嬉戏笑声,随着小河欢乐地流淌,即便是河里的鸭子也似乎能体会这美景,悠然自得地在水里游来游去。阿科河从村子南边的汤那洞流进, 穿过坝美从北头的桃花洞流出。“吱吱呷呷”旋转着的水车是坝子中灌溉的功臣,让坝美拥有肥沃的土壤及生活用水,得以自给自足。被村民称为夫妻树的大榕树如同一对携手共度风雨的 老夫妻,相依相偎,互相扶持,枝繁叶茂地注视着这美丽平和的小村落,只有岁月的在它的枝干上留下了些痕迹。

一路上间或也会遇到担桶的村民往田里走,那桶里装的可是“有机”肥料哦!在现代科技如此发达的今天,城市里的公民是多么惧怕有问题奶粉,吃抗生素长大的鸡。

村民们日出而作,日落而息的生活是如此的从容不迫,匆忙与压迫似乎都未出现在坝美的字典里。或许只有当哪家的女人要生孩子,才能引起村民们的慌张吧!我多么地期望我生活的地方也象这世外桃源,再不用担心什么金融风暴,次级贷,裁员等的生活压力。
要离开坝美,必须乘搭小船掠过丛林,经由阿科河,穿过猴爬岩下边的汤那洞。猴爬岩陡然竖立几百米,我想除了现今一流的攀岩高手外,恐怕就只有猴子才有这本事攀越这岩石山吧!长达860米的汤那洞则完全没天窗,但如今的坝美已经有了电力供应源,因此村民们便安装了照明灯,让我得以欣赏了洞里美丽的钟乳石。溶洞里一片平静,只有船夫撑竿划水的声音拌着我驿动的心重新回到这纷繁复扰的现代社会。

虽然我只是坝美的过客,但那简简单单的小寨子却让我有种身处世外桃源,与世隔绝的经历。我走过不少中国的村寨,更踏足许多壮观的景点如万里长城,元阳梯田等,但这一个并不列入国家级景区的坝美却深深的扣住了我的思维. 或许长期生活在城市里的我终想透过旅行来聆听我心中的呼唤,来让我真正地去感觉,去寻找世外桃源的所在之处. 而坝美人们内心深处那平静、安祥的心境以及那从容不逼的生活节奏,让我领悟到世外桃源也许并非一个地方或美景,而是在我的心中。那么你心中的世外桃源又在何处呢?让我们这些浸染尘世忙碌的人一起寻找那遗失的世外桃源吧!

好喜欢这棵大榕树